Ground moisture wicks up through stone and old brick, carrying salts that crystallise and blow the plaster and mortar apart at skirting height.
Pre-1960 walls were built without a damp-proof course, or with a slate or bitumen one that has failed. Moisture rises by capillary action, evaporates at the surface and leaves salt behind. The salt is the damage: it fretts mortar, bubbles paint and turns render to powder in a band 300-1,200mm above the floor. Adelaide's inner and western suburbs are the national capital of it; Melbourne's brick terraces and bluestone footings have their own version.
A chemical damp-proof course: drill and inject a silicone cream into the mortar bed at floor level, then strip the salt-laden plaster back to bare wall, let it dry, and replaster with a salt-retardant render. Sometimes an undercut physical DPC on stone. Fixing the source (leaking gutters, garden beds against the wall, paving above floor level) is half the job and often the forgotten half.
Indicative 2026 ranges, not quotes. All costs
Rarely. Salt damp is common, predictable and fixable. Walk away when it has gone untreated so long that the stone itself is fretted deep, or when a "fix" was painted over without a DPC: the next round of plaster fails in 2-3 years.
Suburbs in our street DNA set whose era mix and soil make salt damp a regular. Not a survey; a pattern.
Almost never. It is classed as gradual deterioration, not a sudden event. Building inspection reports will flag it and lenders sometimes ask for a quote before settlement.
You can, and it will bubble again within a year or two. Paint traps moisture and makes the wall worse. Treat the damp course first, replaster with a salt-retardant system, then paint.
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