The 8-step framework

1. STEP 1

   Framed vs semi-frameless vs frameless - pick for budget and cleaning

   Framed screens (aluminium around every edge) are the cheapest and most forgiving of out-of-square walls, but the frames trap soap scum. Semi-frameless drop the frame on the glass-to-glass edges for a lighter look at a modest premium. Fully frameless (10mm toughened glass, minimal hardware) is the premium, easiest-to-clean option but needs true, plumb walls and costs the most. For a rental or budget reno, framed; for a forever bathroom, frameless.

2. STEP 2

   Pivot vs sliding vs bifold vs walk-in - match the door to the floor space

   Pivot (hinged) doors need clear swing space in front - great for roomy bathrooms, awkward in small ones. Sliding doors waste no swing space and suit alcove showers against two walls. Bifold doors fold inward and are the space-saver for tight ensuites. Walk-in (fixed panel, no door) is the easiest to clean and most open, but needs a longer base so water does not escape.

3. STEP 3

   Get the shower base shape and size right

   Square (900x900, 1000x1000) suits most alcoves. Rectangular (1200x900, 1500x900) suits walk-ins and larger bathrooms. Curved/round fits a corner and softens a small room. Diamond (angled front) is the space-saver for a corner in a tight bathroom. Measure the finished opening - not the old base - and confirm the waste position (centre vs rear) matches your plumbing before you buy.

4. STEP 4

   Measure the opening properly - top, middle and bottom

   Walls are rarely perfectly plumb. Measure the opening width at the top, middle and bottom and work to the smallest. Frameless screens have little adjustment, so an out-of-square wall can mean a custom panel. Framed and semi-frameless screens include wall channels with 15-20mm of adjustment that hide small discrepancies - the pragmatic choice for older homes.

5. STEP 5

   Spec the glass, coating and hardware finish

   10mm toughened safety glass for frameless, 6-8mm for framed. Ask for an easy-clean / anti-scale coating - it keeps the glass clear with far less scrubbing. Then match the hardware finish to your tapware: chrome/silver is cheapest and timeless; matte black is on-trend but shows water spots and fingerprints more. Keep screen, rail and mirror frame finishes consistent.

6. STEP 6

   Plan waterproofing and the fall to the waste before the screen

   A screen is only as good as the waterproofing behind it. The floor must fall to the waste so water never pools at the screen line, and the membrane must turn up the walls behind the tiles. This is the #1 cause of leaking showers. Walk-in showers especially need a generous base length or a tiled hob so water does not run across the floor.

7. STEP 7

   Match the mirror and finishing pieces

   A back-lit LED mirror (with demister) finishes a modern bathroom and improves task lighting at the vanity. Size it to the vanity width, not the wall. Add a matching shaving cabinet for storage and a heated towel rail if you have the wall space - these are the pieces that make a reno feel complete rather than just functional.

8. STEP 8

   Check delivery, lead time and who installs it

   Screens and bases are bulky and can carry freight and lead-time surprises - confirm both before you commit, and check the return policy for glass. Most screens are installed by your bathroom renovator or a glazier, not the retailer; factor that labour into your budget and book it so the screen is not sitting in the garage while the trades move on.

FAQs